Tag: Culture

After being driven to Fiumicino this morning in a Mercedes coupe being driven by, I assume, a close relative of Mario Andretti, here I sit, waiting for my gate to be assigned. The check in through security was seamless although they did ask me to remove my belt. Knock on wood I have never had to remove my shoes. I then had my last café and chocolate croissant for the time being,

I already miss Rome. Speeding through the city this morning with the soothing sounds of Bruce Springsteen (Italians have a love affair with US music, even if they don’t understand much of it) and the rumble of the engine was an excellent ending to a really wonderful trip. My driver was quite nice and I will use his services in the future. I just scratched the surface of this wonderful country but am looking forward to my next trip.

Ciao Italia.

Today was an art filled non-stop walkathon! Since tomorrow is my last full day, there were several art galleries that I wanted to visit so I started early at the Vatican museum. The Pope was saying mass in the open square today so I thought this would be a good time to visit the Museum. I was almost taken in by the “official” Vatican guides selling €33 tickets for entrance but noticed that they had spelled Vatican wrong on their fake badges. I waited in a line of maybe 100 people with a really nice young couple from England, Emma and Matthew, and we chatted about Rome and they, too, had just come from Venice. They had many similar comments as to the bizarre standing-behind-your-iPad-taking-photos-all-the-time fetish that grips tourists in groups. And yes, I need a catchier phase!

While in line we saw a car hit a pole, a motorcycle skid to the ground, and two cars in a minor collision. Driving in Rome is crazy!

After we waited maybe five minutes to get in, I said goodbye to Emma and Matthew, put my ear plugs in, and waded into the museum. It was pretty incredible, capped off with the Sistine Chapel where I sat and strained to look up at the ceiling listening to a lecture about each segment of the image and Michelangelo’s struggles with the Pope. Wow!

I came back to my B&B to drop some stuff off and went around the corner to the highly rated Patties, a Roman burger joint where I had the best burger I have ever had. The meat was superb! With a full stomach, off I went!

After that I went to the much quieter Doria Pamphilj and was astonished at not only the Valasquez, but also the Caravaggio’s and the Brueghels. It is the most amazing personal collection of norther European artists that I have ever seen, probably rivaled only by the Reichsmuseum in Amsterdam.

As I excited the art gallery I headed up a block or two to the aptly named “Wedding Cake” to get a good vantage point for the sunset. The day started with rain but was ending with a spectacular sunset. I only got a piece of it but what was fascinating were the thousands of birds in the sky. Very beautiful. I chatted with a fellow traveller who had gotten the perfect angle for the sunset and had set up his Samsung phone to do time lapse. I should really get one of those: set it up and it does everything itself!

And since I was there, I decided to hit the Capitoline Museum as well. I was going to do it in the morning but decided that I will rest my sore feet and visit a few churches before heading to the Borghese in the afternoon. The Roman forum and Flavian amphitheatre will have to wait for my next trip… Along with several dozens of other highlights that I couldn’t pack in!

I began the day rather early, making my way past Castle San Angelo to the Vatican. St. Peter’s was an awesome sight. This is the only place that I have ever been the deserves the appellation awesome.

I attended Mass at 7:30 then wandered snapping every angle of the most beautiful building I have ever seen. The homily at Mass was befitting for Remembrance Day, the feast day of St. Martin of Tours, an elite fourth century warrior who learned to serve others to serve God. Peace.

I then did the underground Scavi tour to see the original graves below what is now St. Peter’s. The tour guide was very knowledgeable and, while super humid and tight, one of the best tours ever.

My feet took a beating today. I left the Vatican and made my way to lunch in Trastevere and found the book store that sold architectural drawings but unfortunately it was closed 🙁

I then went to the Aranchi Garden with a beautiful view of the city and then on to the Maltese keyhole. You will have to wait for those photos since the focal length of my phone doesn’t work here.

I also stopped by the Boca de la Verita, made famous by the 1953 classic Roman Holiday with Hepburn and Peck.

I made my way back to the Locanda Navona and am now uploading my images and resting my feet!

//and I am well over 11,000 photos for the trip!

I got off the train and headed outside to the cacophony that is Rome. Being in Venice also meant no cars but within 5 minutes in Rome, I had my fill.

I went down to Campo di Fiori to buy a suitcase that I will use to transport stuff back home, including the vino Nobile that I bought in Montipulciano. After I settle in I am heading out for a drink with a friend that I met a few weeks back. My hosts at the hotel have upgraded my suite and one of my balconies overlooks the square below. I am now sitting here listening to a string quartet playing classical music as I sip a glass of wine and eat some pecorino cheese, pear, and honey.

Here are a few pics from the Doge’s Palace and from up high in the campanile. I have also included a few from inside the Bridge of Sighs.

It is nice to see the sky after a few days of overcast in Venice. The Latium countryside is beautiful and the ride was fast – 245km per hour!

We arrive shortly to nice weather 🙂

I just got on board the high speed train bound for Rome. I spent the morning at the Doge’s Palace at the insistence of the (very hot) receptionist at my hotel. I asked what her choice would be between the Doge’s Palace of St. Marks Basilica, she said Doge’s Palace, for sure. I always listen to beautiful women (call it a character flaw) so off I went. I was amazed at both the interior and the “Bridge of Sighs” (called that by Lord Byron who thought that prisoners would sigh as they were led the bridge with a tiny window to the prison.) I sighed as I walked across in homage to him.

I rushed through, cognizant of the time but as I left I realized that there was practically no line at the campanile so I went up for a birds eye view.

Thank goodness that I had already packed since I didn’t have much time to get to the train station!

I will write more when I get to Rome;I am still absorbing the Serenissima.

Yes. My days have been filled with art. I went to the Accademia and then the Guggenheim today. Wow! I essentially did a short course on western art from the 15th century to today. The Accademia was empty when I arrived but an hour wait when I left, ditto for the Peggy Guggenheim. Like I said, maybe it’s all those churches I’m praying in! So here are a bunch of paintings, a few close ups of Tintoretto’s, some Miro, Picasso, and a smattering of Pollacks (see what I did there :))

Oh… And after all of that, I ended up at a contemporary art exhibit on the far side of Dorsoduro that was quite good!

And this post is for my buddy DM who would have enjoyed this day as much as I did!

//Edit – I am over 10,000 photos thus far. Rome tomorrow!!

So my buddy SL left for his home in Switzerland today. We parted after a morning walk across the Rialto to the Frari Church. I had a big breakfast here at the hotel and several cups of coffee. The Rialto Market was fantastic as was the Frari. The aqua alta was really alta so we made our way across San Marco on the elevated cross walks, along with every tourist in Venice. Stefan wasn’t sure that we could make it to the vaparetto stop near the Ducal Palace without getting wet but I argued that there was no way that a Venetian taxpayer would allow that to happen. I was right! He did leave his crazy water moon boots behind but I have yet to get my feet wet.

After he left I knew I had to get out of the San Marco sestieri and so I headed to the Palazzo Gramani to see the Hiroshige exhibition. I first saw it many years ago in Japan and was really excited. I got there and the doors were locked. Boy was I disappointed. However, maybe due to the number of churches that I have visited in the past several weeks, I noticed that there was another door that when I tried, allowed me entrance. I was super happy! After that I went to the Gesuti church and then wandered along the waterfront back to my B&B. I’m going to out for a bite to eat and a few more night photos!

What a difference a good sleep and resting my feet has made.